In an attempt to put my beachside daydreams at bay, I drove down to Myrtle Beach, ready for any and everything the South Carolina city had to offer. What I found was a sunny spot that far exceeded my expectations. A bit touristy at times yes, but it was many other things too. I found there’s a secret side to the town where locals run away from the crowds and chain restaurants, opting for the underground shopping spots and miles and miles of pristine coastline. Following whatever whim arose, I fluctuated between both worlds: the underground and the mainstream, leaving me satisfied and largely impressed.

Lay of the Land

Just a little over four hours away, this buzzing beach community is a straight shot from Savannah. Take I-17 north then cruise northeast for a fairly easy drive. But, be prepared for slow traffic once you get about 40 miles from Myrtle Beach; the two lane roads are packed with tourists all summer.

Sitting amid the 60 miles of beaches that make up the Grand Strand, Myrtle Beach has been a popular place to live and to visit since the early 1900s. The birthplace of Sports Illustrated Magazine, the beach is now home to approximately 22,759 people.

Murrells Inlet

Noted by locals as the place to go for its laidback bars and waterfront entertainment, the strip is the indie hang out for ages 25 and up.

Surfside Beach

Grab your long board and some beach towels for this popular place to surf and to relax amid the waves. It’s only 10 miles from Myrtle Beach. The break from the bustle and traffic makes this friendly locale worth looking into.

Pawley’s Island

Just 25 miles south of Myrtle Beach, Pawley’s Island is host to a plethora of kitschy boutiques and serene waterfront. It’s perfect for families and for those seeking a quiet retreat for shopping and lounging.

Where to Stay:

For a quaint place to kick up your heels, take a rest at Serendipity Inn on Myrtle Beach. A three-minute walk from the shore, this Spanish-influenced inn has a prime location at surprisingly low rates ($89 for a single room in peak season). A swimming pool and a scrumptious home-cooked breakfast (which was breakfast casserole, fresh fruit, coffee cake and muffins when I stayed) with owners Phill and Kay Mullins give this beachy hideaway a romantic-yet-relaxed aura.

A higher end option right on the beach is The Breakers Resort Myrtle Beach. Indulge in a Passion to Thailand treatment at the recently constructed Cinzia Spa after a long day in the sun or have the resort book you a tee time at one of the dozen or so award-winning golf courses in the area. Then lounge by the pool or the beach, just a few feet away from your ocean-view room. Kids can let their imaginations run wild at the Pirate Ship on site.

If you’re drawn to golf and shopping as much as you are the beach, dine and slumber in a condo or in a villa at Barefoot Resort and Golf. Located in North Myrtle Beach on Barefoot Landing, you’re just a short walk away from four golf courses, House of Blues Myrtle Beach and over 150 shops. Grab a few friends and rent a four-bedroom luxury villa right beside the water. Prices start at $199- when you divide it by eight it’s a real steal!

To read more about Myrtle Beach check out South Magazine’s August September Issue!

It’s officially summer, and if you’re searching for a solution to your cabin fever … look no further! After a long winter holed up in my tiny apartment on the park, watching and waiting, and secretly willing the weather to warm up, I finally poked my head out of my hibernation hideaway and decided to take a chance on yet another of Savannah’s neighboring cities—Jacksonville. As expected it lived up to my need for adventure, and I even came back home a little richer for the experience—in more ways than one!

Getting There.

A straight shot from Savannah (simply take I-16 to I-95 and you’ll arrive in two hours flat), it’s simple to get to Jacksonville; the hard part—you’ll find out—is leaving. With generous gambling at the local dog tracks, the Jacksonville Jaguars at the Municipal Stadium and famous music from around the world at more than five concert venues, Jacksonville, also known as the bold new city of the South, promises an adventure around every corner.

For more information on Jacksonville on all it’s winning attributes check out the latest issue on stands now!

Located in Savannah’s backyard, the Skidaway Island State Park Trails have a tropical atmosphere great for nature watching.

LENGTH: 4.6 MILES

SKILL LEVEL: EASY

DURATION: 205 HOURS

more info: 912.598.2300

Crooked River State Park Trail provides novice hikers with a scenic trek on the Semper Virens Trail that loops into the marsh and maritime forests.

LENGTH: 2.9 MILES

SKILL LEVEL: EASY

DURATION: 1 HOUR

more info: 912..882.525

The Nanny Goat Beach Nature Trail starts by the Reynolds Mansion and offers hikers a chance to see the tidal zone of a salt marsh and view ancient and active dunes.

LENGTH: 2.5 MILES

SKILL LEVEL: EASY

DURATION: 2 HOURS

more info: 912.437.3224

The Savannah National Wildlife Refuge, located on the Georgia and South Carolina border, has an array of beautiful trails.

LENGTH: 8 MILES

SKILL LEVEL: EASY

DURATION: 8-10 HOURS

more info: 803.734.9108

The Harris Neck National Wildlife Refuge offers 15 miles of trails through a mixture of hardwood pines, open fields, salt marshes and thickets.

LENGTH: 15 MILES

SKILL LEVEL: EASY TO MODERATE

DURATION: 2-4 HOURS

more info: savannahcoastal@fws.gov

****

LAY OF THE LAND

A hop, skip and 85 miles south of Savannah, charm-seeking travelers will find St. Simons Island. Follow Interstate 95 to exit 38, make one left turn and cross the bridge to experience a whole new side of the Lowcountry. St. Simons Island, the largest island in the chain of Golden Isles, is home to only 13,500 residents in nearly 33 square miles. Little St. Simons Island can only be reached by boat, leaving its beaches private and pristine. Sea Island is an internationally acclaimed resort, although it does in fact host a number of permanent residents as well. Brunswick, a port city, is best known for its world-famous Brunswick stew. Jekyll Island was once an exclusive winter retreat for America’s wealthiest families and is still well known for its luxurious offerings.

WHERE TO STAY
For a first class view of the wonderful waters, reserve a room at the Ocean Inn and Suites. Located in the heart of the downtown area, this hotel offers spacious rooms with all hardwood floors and a wrought iron balcony overlooking both Neptune Park and the sea.

Another option is the oceanfront Beach Bed and Breakfast. This luxurious accommodation offers plush and pomp amenities including, large rooms with full size bathtubs, walk-in closets and complimentary bathrobes, beverages and snacks. Fairytale weddings are another specialty offered at this picturesque seaside resort and are guaranteed to be stress-free as the capable staff handles everything from the shower to the ceremony. If this is your stay of choice, prepare to be pampered.

Consider also the Saint Simons Inn. Only a footstep away from the ocean, pier, parks, shops and restaurants, this inn is the ultimate not only in convenience but also in coziness. With only 34 rooms to offer, rest assured your rest won’t be disturbed.

WHERE TO PLAY
Like any good beach town, water sports and outdoor adventure abound on St. Simons Island.

Fun, history and education await you at 18th-century Fort Fredrica. Take a step back into colonial history as you stop by the visitor’s center to marvel at the recovered artifacts and engage in hands-on activities and games. Hit up the book store on your way out to take a piece of history home with you.

Crustaceans make a delicious dinner and catching your own will only make the reward that much sweeter. So grab a little fishing line off your pole, tie some raw chicken to it before you drop anchor off the side of the pier, and try your hand at a little crabbing.

The flat roads, shaded by mossy oaks make St. Simons an ideal island for bike riding; a heart-healthy and eco-friendly kind of transportation you can take advantage of for your entire stay, if you choose. Stop by Ocean Motion and rent a bike, lock and helmet for the entire week for only $49.

Like what you’re reading? Check out the full article in the February/March issue of The South magazine.

He is an unexpected gust of wind, and chances are that you’ll hear Alan Davies before you see him. The booming, resonant English accent of the skilled tennis player turned instructor is first to greet you as you make your way down the sidewalk toward the green clay courts of the Wilmington Island Club. Yet you cannot help but see him as he stands to the side of the court, a man with a commanding presence, dressed in navy tennis clothing, waiting in his usual stance—one that is akin to the virile, debonair Cary Grant of the Golden Era—to begin the lesson.

On the court, Alan Davies is as alert and watchful as an impala standing stoic in the grassy plains of Africa. Sheltered behind sunglasses, his brown eyes lighten to amber or darken to black as he absorbs all the action on the court. Strikingly, he delivers a well-balanced critique of praise and criticism, characteristically softened with a quick-witted humor and charisma that puts all at ease. But off the court and in the shade of Savannah, Davies’ intensity melts into a delighted smile when he speaks of Kenya, the expansive world of his boyhood.

In the spring of 2000, a 20-year-old Alan Davies stepped off a plane at the Savannah Hilton Head International Airport with two duffle bags slung over one side of his broad shoulders. He carried with him items to help him feel at home: Kenyan coffee, Kenyan tea, his kikoi (a colorful cotton fabric traditionally worn by African men) and a tennis racket. He entered as a man born with a silver spoon for stirring tea in one hand and a tennis racket in the other.

“My ‘dad’ had me on the court from day one,” explains Davies of his childhood days spent on a court adjacent to their house. “We are a tennis family.”

Alan Davies’ grandfather—whom he calls Dad—came to Nairobi from Liverpool, England. As a young man, he joined the British Army and became a member of its African unit, The Royal West African Frontier Force, moving to Kenya in 1949. When the Korean War broke out, and the possibility of being shipped out arose, he asked Davies’ grandmother to marry him so he could stay in Kenya.

Davies’ dad trained him to be a singles player at the family’s 3-acre compound in Nairobi, the J.D. Tennis Academy. For two years prior to arriving in Hilton Head, Davies took everything he’d learned from his dad and entered professional satellite tournaments in Spain.

“You just want to go out there and do the best you can,” he says, glancing out the tennis shop windows toward the courts guarded on all sides by weathered water oak trees carefully trimmed in Spanish moss. “And at the end of the day, you either have to take the high road or the low road. I thought, ‘This is not for me. I’ve had a great run, but I need to get on with it.’”

He decided that he wanted to teach. Davies then returned home to Nairobi as an instructor and once again learned from his dad, who taught him the three C’s to playing and instructing: remain calm, cool and collected.

As he strolled through Savannah’s airport with his two duffle bags in tow, Davies could not foresee that he eventually would not have to choose between his homeland of Kenya and the American South, where he’d journeyed to instruct at the Van Der Meer Tennis Academy. His journey to the South got interesting when he went on a blind date with a graphic design student from Savannah College of Art and Design, Rachel Almond.

“Of course, I thought his accent was very charming,” Rachel (now) Davies recalls, smiling over at her husband. “And I was just really drawn to his stories about his upbringing, and how he was still so much a part of things there.”

In fact, Rachel Davies recognized her husband’s love for going on safaris when he took her to Kenya in 2001. During the trip, she proposed the idea of Alan Davies taking others on safari—professionally.

“He did such a good job of taking me there, hosting and making me feel comfortable,” she explains. “He was so excited and at ease with it. He just has such a warm, funny personality, and he truly loves the country. I couldn’t think of a better fit!”

“It all stems from ’survival trips’ I took during prep school to areas such as Naivaisha, Hell’s Gate and Gilgil outside of Nairobi,” Alan Davies says enthusiastically. “On Fridays, we’d get to leave school; we’d be in dress down clothes and have all our camping gear ready. And we’d hike, camp and cook outside at someone’s farm or by a river. These were great times.”

Supplementing such exotic field trips were family safaris to the Nairobi Game Park, which lies a few miles from their house.

“We’d get up real early and drive in there by 7 a.m. We’d watch the sun come up,” he says, looking up toward the bright ceiling of the tennis shop. “Then we’d fry bacon and eggs. We’d see animals along the way. If we were lucky, we’d see a lion out in the morning.”

According to Alan Davies, safari does not just mean going out into the wild to catch glimpses of lions, zebras and giraffes. In Swahili, safari simply means “to journey.” And you do not have to journey far to go on safari.

“Safaring is kind of like going to the ocean: It’s not monotonous,” he explains in his mellifluous accent. “Every single day is different. You are never going to see the same things twice. Every place has a unique feeling to it. The wildlife is a big draw. But I think it’s the environment, the landscape and the atmosphere all combined that make an area special.”

However, it wasn’t just the Davies’ passion for safaring that sparked the beginning of Jambo Safari, their African safari company. Early in their relationship, the two quickly realized that they both shared a love for traveling.

“Experiencing new places, people and food was a huge part of my upbringing,” says Rachel Davies, who is the senior director of creative services for SCAD and the owner of Red Door Design Group, a freelance design company. “The appreciation for learning how other people live was taught to me at a young age and is now something I really look for and am drawn to as an adult. I think that’s why I’m drawn to Alan too. His being from somewhere completely different than me and knowing how much he appreciated travel was really important to me.”

“As a child, I learned that there was more to the world than where you just went to bed every night,” states Alan Davies, who often traveled with his family through Africa, Europe and the United States.

In 2005, when the Davies began Jambo Safari, they quickly recognized how their interests and talents accented each other’s.

“We have to rely on each other’s expertise to really make it work. So, it really feels like ‘our’ company. We always joke about who works for whom?” Rachel Davies says, winking at her husband. “Alan is the personality of Jambo, and of course, the Kenyan expert. I developed our website and marketing materials and package his knowledge to our clients.”

It takes the Davies close to six months to precisely plan a custom safari that is tailored to suit the needs and interests of their clients. Extensive time and thought is needed to create a vacation far from the trail-ridden trip one could take with a major tour company. Therefore, when they are not working their full-time jobs, boating on the Wilmington River, fishing or spending time with their West Highland terrier, Tsavo, they are talking about Africa. The planning has become a natural, if not integral, part of their everyday existence.

“Alan’s heart has always been in Kenya, so planning itineraries and developing Jambo is very much a part of our everyday lives,” comments Rachel Davies. “Through our business, Alan is fortunate enough to maintain a strong presence as a Kenyan, as well as have a life here. Alan doesn’t have to choose.”

“There are very few family or partner companies that have a foot in both worlds like Rachel and I do,” adds her husband.

Jambo Safari truly came together in December 2008, when Alan Davies temporarily retired his Prince racquet, packed up his various safari gear and took a Richmond Hill resident and devout tennis player, Laurie Noonburg, off the courts and into the wild. Initially, Noonburg learned about Davies’ Kenyan background and safari company while taking tennis lessons at the club.

“One day, while recovering after hitting thousands of tennis balls, Alan and I had a conversation about him growing up in Kenya. His love and appreciation for the country was infectious, which I shared with my husband later that evening,” says Noonburg. “[My husband] Greer had always dreamed of going on safari—‘Johnny Quest’ being his favorite television show as a child. So, we met with Alan and Rachel for dinner and began discussing plans for taking our family to Kenya. We wanted our sons to share in what we knew would be the trip of a lifetime.”

Evidently, returning to Kenya is an easy transition for Alan Davies, who took control of the safari with as much confidence and enthusiasm as he exhibits on the court.

“He eases back into the lifestyle, into being a Kenyan,” says Rachel Davies, who, according to her husband, never travels anywhere without her kanga (a more colorful version of the kikoi). “Both Savannah and Kenya are places where the landscape and the nature shape the city and the culture. We will always be able to come home to both places.”

“Nairobi is an old city full of character. It’s cliquey and fun, very similar to Savannah. It’s a good mixture of culture and people—a melting pot,” says Alan Davies. “Maybe that’s why I am comfortable being in both.”

Davies journeyed the Noonburgs and their three sons to the historic Norfolk Hotel in Nairobi and into the Masai Mara, Kenya’s finest game sanctuary; accompanied them one-fourth of the way up Mount Kilimanjaro, the world’s highest free-standing equatorial mountain; followed a herd of elephants with them through the Amboseli National Reserve; flew with them to the Serena Beach Hotel located in the ancient town of Mombasa, set on the coast of the Indian Ocean; drove them into the rugged landscape of Tsavo West National Park, Kenya’s largest game reserve; and finally, took them back to Nairobi to experience a lively outdoor trading market.

The Noonburgs will be the first to tell you that they did not merely travel through Kenya. They experienced what it was like to live there. “Speaking fluent Swahili and masterful with Kenyan shillings, Alan was the link that made Kenya personal. Having tea with his grandparents and playing doubles tennis at his family’s Nairobi compound ranks as one of my favorite memories,” expresses Laurie Noonburg.

“Alan’s family and the Kenyans themselves made the trip,” Dr. Greer Noonburg, a local orthopedic surgeon, says with conviction. “Everywhere we went, there was some family story or event to be told.”

***

Though his horizons are wide, Alan Davies is a man who doesn’t have to choose. He remains a Kenyan at home in Savannah. His two duffle bags no longer hold all his treasures. However, he navigates successfully between his two worlds, keeping his bags unpacked and a tennis racquet at hand.

And as we walk out of the tennis shop towards the adjacent patio, we wave to the club’s tennis director, Amy Bradley, as she energetically instructs on the court below.

“Amy has always encouraged me to go and do something else,” he admits. “She allows me to take the time to safari. It is very unique to have someone like [her].”

We can hear the heads of the sprinkler system, embedded in the lush green golf course, begin to tick and hiss as we sit down at a patio table. Suddenly, arms of water from each head arch out, leaving the rolling course looking like a synchronized army of greyish shrimp boats casting their trawl lines into the ocean. I ask him if the marsh, when it’s dry, looks anything like the savannas of Africa.

“I suppose you could compare brown marsh to some of the grassy plains,” Alan Davies says as he looks towards the river. “When you are out there and look at the marsh when it is mid to low tide, and all you see is grass in the distance, it is very similar to the plains.”

I wonder what it would be like to stretch my eyes across land absent of busy power lines, buildings and houses—a landscape of days gone by.

He mentions that many people want to go on safaris because they are interested in going back in time. “Africa remains in that timeless safari embrace,” remarks Alan Davies. “It doesn’t divert you with highways and byways. You are always driving the real Africa. Here, you are in the inside looking out; there, you are on the outside looking out.”

As we part ways, I ask him to say something to me in what he refers to as his “kitchen Swahili.”

“Safari njema,” Alan Davies says, his eyes all in amber. “It means, ‘Have a safe journey.’”

“Safari njema,” I respond timidly.

For more information on Jambo Safari and to view photos of the Davies’ journeys, visit www.jambosafari.net

Kenya Dig It?

The Republic of Kenya is an unforgettable place. A former British protectorate and colony, it gained its independence in 1963.
Population: 39,002,772
Capital: Nairobi
Native language: Swahili
Sights: Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest point in Africa (more than 5,000 meters); exotic animal safaris
Climate: Varies from tropical on the coast to arid in the interior

Barkin’ Bulldogs
Athens, Georgia
Travel Time: 4 hours

Spend a football-filled weekend in Athens and watch the Dawgs kick off the 2009 season at their first home game on September 12. As the Classic City transforms into a sea of red and black, enjoy the view from the comfort of Georgia Gameday Center, just a short walk to the stadium and packed with Georgia style. Insider’s tip: Southerners keep it classy; so don’t forget the pearls and suspenders.

For rates and availability at Georgia Gameday Center, check out www.gagamedaycenter.com

Theme Park Playtime
Atlanta, Georgia, $249
Travel Time: 4 hours

Looking for one last thrill before the brood heads back to school? Get the adrenaline pumping with a VIP weekend package deal from Six Flags Over Georgia. Customize your day with a private tour guide, front-of-the-line ride privileges, reserved show seating and valet parking. Insider’s tip: Don’t forget to pack the sunblock and some Dramamine.

For more information, visit www.sixflags.com/overGeorgia

Wine and Dine
Sylvania, Georgia
Travel Time: 1 1/2 hours

For a romantic rendezvous, nothing can rival the ambience at Shannon Vineyards. Melt away the woes of the week with a leisurely wine tasting, followed by a delicious dinner. Insider’s tip: Can’t wait for the weekend? Head over to the retail shop on Congress Street for an instant palate-pleasing tasting.

For more information on Shannon Vineyards, visit www.shannonvineyards.com

Raging Rapids
Long Creek, South Carolina, $267–$302
Travel Time: 3 hours

Enjoy a gourmet breakfast, buffet lunch and steak dinner and raft down the Chattooga River. Grab a paddle and take a shot at Wildwater’s ultimate two-day rafting challenge. This awesome adventure promises class III and IV rapids, a beautiful waterfall and a secluded swimming hole, not to mention a trained guide to help paddlers navigate some of Mother Nature’s wildest white water. Insider’s tip: A waterproof camera will be much cheaper at a drug store than the gift shop, so make sure to plan ahead.

For details on the rafting trip, check out www.wildwaterrafting.com

I can’t remember my first time on Amelia Island. The 18-mile long stretch of sand on Florida’s northeast coast has been part of my family for generations. My parents grew up vacationing there, renting ramshackle beachfront cabins on the island’s north side for $40 a week. In 1980, my young parents bought a house—for $35,000—across the street from those cabins, and I have a very vivid memory of standing on the front porch of that house one summer night, watching some of the little white clapboard shacks burn to the ground.

Like those cabins, Amelia Island has evolved in its 4,000-year history, but remained constant: You can no longer buy an ocean view house for $35,000, but you can still find that small-town beachy charm without looking too hard. Amelia, and its city center Fernandina Beach, have the distinction of being the only communities in the United States to be ruled by eight different political groups. The island’s nickname, “Isle of Eight Flags,” boasts of its rather chaotic past, and its 50-block waterfront historic district celebrates it.

The best way to experience Amelia Island is with a local. I’m no native, but I’d like to think that I’ve spent enough time there to be considered an honorary islander. So with sentiment at my side and history as my guide, I go back to the Isle of Eight Flags to roam—and reminisce.

Lay of the Land

You’ll find Amelia Island just south of the Georgia state line, an easy 2 1/2-hour drive from Savannah. The island is long and skinny: 18 miles from end to end and 3 miles wide.

Fernandina Beach, nestled in between the two poles, is a quaint shrimping village with a love of pirate lore. Centre Street is the main drag of the historic district and dead ends into the boat docks. Restaurants, antique shops, bars and souvenir stores line Centre, and tourists stroll the sidewalks in this vibrant downtown area.

Amelia Island Plantation takes up 1,350 acres on the island’s south end. Essentially an all-inclusive resort, the Plantation offers golf, tennis and beaches, and prides itself on good environmental stewardship.

On the north tip of Amelia Island is Fort Clinch State Park, one of the most well preserved 19th-century forts in the country, maybe because no battles were fought there. In addition to the historic fort, visitors will find a fishing pier and some of the calmest, quietest beaches in the area.

Where to Stay

The most high-profile place to lay your head on Amelia Island is the Ritz-Carlton, a AAA five-diamond oceanfront resort. With 444 guest rooms, each with its own private balcony and view of the coast, this hotel is luxurious and peaceful. Children are welcome, and there are even activities for teenagers. Be sure to visit the spa and try the Heaven in a Hammock treatment, a massage performed in a swaying hammock.

If such grand-scale amenities aren’t your style, Amelia Island boasts plenty of intimate bed and breakfasts and inns, many located in the historic district. One to try is the Addison on Amelia, a 14-room boutique inn made up of three antebellum houses surrounding a courtyard. Guest rooms have 600-thread count sheets and hardwood floors, while breakfast consists of banana pancakes and fresh fruit smoothies.

For a truly one-of-a-kind experience, rent Katie’s Light. Built as a replica of a Chesapeake Bay lighthouse, Katie’s Light earned its 15 minutes of fame when it appeared in the 1988 movie The New Adventures of Pippi Longstocking. It’s not a working lighthouse, but it’s beachfront, it’s quirky, and it’s a bit of a town celebrity.

Where to Play

Amelia Island beckons outdoors lovers, and with good reason. Its 13 miles of beaches offer activities for every kind of visitor, from those who like to work up a sweat on vacation to people who like to—well—not work up a sweat.

One of my favorite things to do on Amelia is hunt for sharks’ teeth. In fact, when I was a little girl my father used to call me “Eagle Eyes,” thanks to my peculiar knack for spotting the little black triangles in the sand. Amelia’s beaches are constantly renourished, which can make it easier to find the fossilized teeth. The best time to look is at low tide, when shell beds are more exposed.

Surf fishing is another popular beachside activity. No need for a boat, just bring a rod, some bait and a sand spike (which holds your rod in the sand). Whiting are the most common catches, but trout and reds also swim around near the shore.

For history lovers, don’t miss taking a walking tour of Historic Fernandina Beach. Hosted by the Amelia Island Museum of History, guides take visitors through the Silk Stocking District, an area full of Victorian mansions where ladies who could afford silk stockings lived in the late 19th century.

On the first weekend of every month, living historians at Fort Clinch State Park re-create life during the Civil War, with artillery demonstrations and soldier drills. If you miss this event, the park is still worth a visit for its beaches, fishing and hiking trails.

Where to Dine

Like many beach towns, the restaurant scene on Amelia Island is a mixture of beach bars and fine dining. Shrimp is the seafood of choice here; in fact, Fernandina bills itself as the birthplace of the modern shrimping industry.

Salt, located at the Ritz-Carlton, is a AAA four-diamond eatery. The restaurant uses its ocean views as inspiration for its menu: simple, flavorful food from the earth and sea. As an added touch, servers bring samples of various salts to the table, but the food is usually perfect without it. Try the filet mignon: It melts in your mouth.

Away from the shore, but with an equally impressive ambiance, is the Beech Street Grill, a bistro with a global menu housed in a 120-year-old home. With an award-winning wine cellar and a live pianist, there’s a reason why this lively spot has been a staple of Amelia’s dining scene for nearly 20 years.

Of course, Amelia Island has its share of low-key beach shacks. Sliders, a beach bar that is actually on the beach, and The Surf, which sits across the street from the beach, both have good food at fair prices. The real attraction of these restaurants, though, is the salty vibe and the frequent live music.

For early risers, the best breakfast in town is at a little, out-of-the-way, strip-mall restaurant called Ms. Carolyn’s Breakfast and Desserts. Locals—and tourists in the know—flock to this spot for big cinnamon rolls, delicious coconut cake and a fabulous breakfast menu.

Where to Dance

The nightlife on Amelia Island is mostly concentrated in downtown Fernandina. During the tourist season, it’s easy to hear live music in the air.

The most famous downtown spot is the historic Palace Saloon. As Florida’s oldest bar, the Palace has seen its share of ups and downs: It sold gasoline and near beer to survive prohibition, and a 1999 fire nearly destroyed the old watering hole. The saloon is popular with locals and tourists alike, and has live music nearly every night.

A few blocks from the Palace is the Frisky Mermaid, a small blues venue located in the lobby of the Florida House Inn. The bar is dedicated to live blues and bluegrass music, but does offer shagging lessons on weekends.

If downtown Fernandina is too far to drive, head to the Falcon’s Nest on Amelia Island Plantation. The decor is aviation-themed, and the bar is packed when a DJ is in the house.

Where to Shop

Antique shops are in abundance on Amelia Island, but ironically, so are surf shops. Downtown Fernandina boasts great sidewalk shopping, but it also pays to venture out of the historic district.

Antiquing is a popular pastime, and two shops to put on your list are Eight Flags Antique Market and French Market Antiques. Both stores face Centre Street, the main street dissecting downtown, and both have a wealth of antique furniture and accessories.

Two more downtown stores worthy of a visit are Twisted Sisters and The Book Loft. At The Book Loft, you’ll find two floors of fiction and non-fiction books, including rarities and local history books. Twisted Sisters sells women’s clothing, accessories and gifts with a flair.

For a fabulous selection of swimsuits, sunglasses and surfing gear, head to Pipeline Surf Shop and Driftwood Sun & Surf. Even if you don’t surf, these stores can help you look the part.

The best time to visit Amelia Island is anytime: It’s peaceful in the winter and jumping in the summer. There’s something about this little town that keeps my family coming back year after year. My eyesight is certainly not worthy of “Eagle Eye” status anymore; a new family now owns my parents’ simple beach house; and a park occupies the oceanfront lot once filled with the little white ramshackle cabins. But no matter how Amelia—or I—change, the beauty and history of this barrier island is enough to steer me back, even if I never earn the right to be called a local.

For information on planning a trip to Amelia Island, visit www.ameliaisland.com

Where to Stay

The Ritz-Carlton. Rates from $199. 904.277.1100 or www.ritzcarlton.com
Addison on Amelia. Rates from $165. 904.277.1604 or www.addisononamelia.com
Katie’s Light. Rates from $380. 800.772.3359 or www.ameliaislandvacation.com

Where to Play

Walking tour of Historic Fernandina Beach 904.261.7378 or www.ameliamuseum.org
Fort Clinch State Park 904.277.7274 or www.floridastateparks.org/fortclinch

Where to Dine

Salt  904.491.6746 or www.ritzcarlton.com
Beech Street Grill 904.277.3662 or  www.beechstreetgrill.com
Sliders  904.277.6652
The Surf  904.261.5711 or www.thesurfonline.com
Ms. Carolyn’s  904.261.6277

Where to Dance
Palace Saloon  904.491.3332 or www.thepalacesaloon.com
Frisky Mermaid  904.261.3300 or www.friskymermaid.com
Falcon’s Nest  904.491.4242 or www.aipfl.com/falconsnest/index.html

Where to Shop
Eight Flags Antique Market  904.277.8550
French Market Antiques  904.491.0707 or www.frenchmarketantiques.com
The Book Loft  904.261.8991
Twisted Sisters  904.261.2501
Pipeline Surf Shop  904.277.3717 or www.pipelinesurfshop.com
Driftwood Sun & Surf  904.321.2188

Amelia Facts

Flags of Their Fathers: Eight different flags have laid claim to Amelia Island throughout its history.
France, 1562­­-1565
Spain, 1565-1763 and 1783-1821
England, 1763-1783
Patriots, 1812
Green Cross, 1817
Mexico, 1817
Confederate States, 1861-1862
United States, 1821-1845 and 1862-present

Oldies But Goodies

Amelia Island is home to some of the oldest places in Florida.
Oldest bar: Palace Saloon
Oldest continuously operated hotel: Florida House Inn
Oldest working lighthouse: Amelia Island Lighthouse

Typically, when people first ride in my dusty, dirty ‘96 Toyota station wagon, I’ve known them for a while. They’re familiar enough with me to excuse the broken air conditioning, crumpled pages of Googlemapped directions, gum wrappers and piles of fast-food napkins stowed hastily atop the center console. But when I ushered Samantha Brown across Bull Street and to the dinged door of my car that warm, windless day, I worried that she and I didn’t know each other well enough for the ride.

Yet, after she reached behind her for the seatbelt, politely not noticing the mild smell of stale coffee and hot vinyl, my fears were quickly diminished. She was laidback and smiling, cracking a window and scanning the oak-lined street ahead.

It shouldn’t have surprised me that Samantha Brown, Travel Channel starlet, would take in stride being stuck in a stifling station wagon with a nervous reporter.

As a television personality known for her perky demeanor and sustained enthusiasm, she is a woman whose tireless graciousness may be a small price to pay for one of the best jobs in the world.

As a profession, Brown travels 230 days a year, touring the world accompanied by a camera crew and a legion of doting followers living vicariously through her from the comfort of their own couches. A New Hampshire native, Brown began a career in musical theater before being tapped by the Travel Channel nearly a decade ago. She has since hosted a slew of critically and viewer acclaimed series for the network, including Passport to Europe, Great Hotels, Great Vacation Homes and Passport to Latin America. In each episode, Brown can be seen with her characteristic broad smile, exuberantly touring beautiful hotel rooms, fearlessly winding her way through crowded foreign streets and enveloping herself in the customs and culture of her host city. Her most recent project, Passport to Great American Weekends, has her Stateside visiting some of our country’s most interesting cities and towns—including Savannah and Charleston, which share an episode set to air May 9.

It was this show that brought Samantha Brown to Savannah and to the stuffy interior of my car. That afternoon, on a break from taping, we met for an interview.

With that complete, it was my assignment to safely drive her to a photo shoot at a train station several miles away. I told myself that this was a rare and exciting opportunity to be the tour guide in the city I love for one of the world’s most prolific travelers.

But then I got lost. I had never been to that train station before, and while she discreetly dabbed the sweat from her forehead, I had to pull over three times to call for directions from the waiting photographer. My embarrassment compounded by the continued squealing of my brakes, I finally found the location, then watched Brown pose skillfully in front of the camera before I put her back in the station wagon for a ride to her hotel.

Awkward as the situation was for this reporter, Brown’s patience and kindness never quit. Throughout the ride, she chatted about local politics and the best places in Savannah to shop. When I dropped her off on Broughton Street, she paused before opening the door. At first I thought that she was bracing herself for the humiliation of climbing out of my car. Instead, she thanked me for my time, kissed me on the cheek and wished me luck before confidently stepping out into the throngs of pedestrians, many of whom recognized her immediately and moved in her direction. The last I saw of her, Samantha Brown was smiling widely as she signed an autograph for a middle-aged woman near tears from excitement.

Driving home, still blushing slightly, I reasoned that the casual, go-with-the-flow attitude Samantha Brown exhibited throughout the torturous station wagon ride wasn’t a shallow celebrity act or even mere politeness— it was a perfect example of what makes her a great traveler. Rather than getting upset and anxious when the unexpected or unpleasant happens, Brown rolls with the punches and uses the situation as an opportunity to gain a new perspective on her surroundings. It’s the same tactic she employs on her show when it starts raining on an outdoor excursion or right after she’s put a questionably tasty item of local cuisine in her mouth. It’s Brown’s ability to turn a bad situation good that makes her so much fun to watch.

Samantha Brown offered up a few more items of traveling wisdom when we sat down at the Gryphon Tea Room on Bull Street to discuss life on the road and her thoughts on the great Hostess City.

The South magazine: Tell me about the episode of Passport to Great American Weekends you’re working on here in Savannah.

Samantha Brown: The episode is actually about Charleston and Savannah. We started in Charleston and ended with Savannah, and the theme—each Weekend show has a

theme to it, so it all ties together—the theme for this one is “Sam faces her fears down South.” I’m so scared to be on a horse, so in Charleston, we did a fox hunt. Well it was a drag hunt, not a real fox hunt because I would not do that. It was nuts! In Savannah, we’re staying at the Kehoe House, which is beautiful and, of course, it’s haunted, which is a fear. I also did my fear of bees, so we went to the Savannah Bee Company!

TSM: What’s been your favorite part of the city so far?

SB: The thing I was the most excited about in Savannah was to go to the bar The Jinx and do Rock and Roll Bingo. That was great! I mean, in every single travel show you’ve ever seen about Savannah, it’s always about the genteelness, the Southerness of it. No one knows that there are people here tattooed from head to foot. Whenever people ask me, ‘What should I do in this city?’ I’m like, do something that takes you out of your comfort zone. Take yourself to a place full of people that you don’t normally get to meet and just talk to them. I guess my whole general feeling of travel is that it allows us to talk more to people. I just think that for me, what makes travel absolutely special, is just the people in the destination that give you a side of that destination that you’re never going to find on a tour, never going to find on a website—you just gotta be there. I like when people watch the show and say, ‘I would never have done that, but because you went there, I feel like I could go there.’ Good! Get yourself to The Jinx and saddle yourself up to the most dangerous person you’ve ever seen in your life, because they’re absolute sweethearts.

TSM: Okay, I’ve got to give you a little trouble for covering both Savannah and Charleston in the same episode. There are people in both cities that might argue that we deserve two separate shows.

SB: I know! I know! If it was my choice, it would’ve been. We could have easily done an episode in Charleston and an episode in Savannah. That choice was not mine, and certainly not something I wanted to do. [There’s a] difference between the two [cities], because Charleston certainly has its characters, but Savannah just has that fringe element that I like. It’s kind of like, what Austin is to Texas, Savannah is to Georgia. It’s an anomaly. It’s sort of like your own independent state here, and I like that; I like that spontaneity here. Charleston is beautiful and just a little more conservative.

TSM: Well, we forgive you. Do you find that Savannah lives up to its Hostess City name?

SB: Oh absolutely! Everyone here says ‘Welcome to Savannah!’ and everyone has gone out of their way to be like, ‘Oh what are you doing?’ and ‘If you want to do this, come by.’ My favorite restaurant here is B. Matthews and I’ve eaten there everyday. So while sitting there, one of the professors at SCAD came up to me, and he invited me to a big open house tonight with the students, and I love that. You have friends everywhere.

TSM: So, you hear daily that you have the best job in the world— but what are the downsides to traveling so often?

SB: I do get very tired and that’s why people and my connection with them are vital to me. When we were doing [Passport to Europe], we’d be gone for a month at a time. After a while, it became very hard to be away that long, and so monuments and museums started to lose their allure and power for me, so I started to go towards neighborhoods. Normal, everyday neighborhoods. I didn’t want to see any tourists, because tourists made me feel alone. So I naturally gravitated toward where people live and really just started opening up myself for people to get an idea of their experience. It soothed me.

TSM: What is the best piece of advice you can offer an aspiring world traveler?

SB: What I would say, especially if you travel abroad to like say China or even Europe, make sure you spend time in someone’s everyday. Don’t just check things off the list, because someone’s everyday is your extraordinary. Just to get a sense of how they live, make sure you spend at least one day being in a neighborhood that’s not touristy.

Then you see how we’re similar— which is pretty exciting—but also how we’re different and how that difference is something that should be celebrated.

Watch it!

Check out the Savannah/Charleston episode of Passport to Great American Weekends, currently set to air May 9 on the Travel Channel. See your local listings for more details.

You’d be hard-pressed to find someone that speaks more fluently—or frequently—on Savannah’s storied history than Bob Register. As a tour guide with Old Savannah Tours for the last 15 years, he leads over 750 tours annually and has shaped the experiences of literally thousands of visitors with his genteel manners, erudite delivery and homespun Hostess City charm.

The South recently jumped on the trolley with the 65-year-old, fourth-generation Savannhian for a chat about being an ambassador for the city and having more Georgia on his mind than Ray Charles.

The South magazine: Does this job come naturally to you?

Bob Register: I’ve always been a salesman. So what I’m doing now is I’m selling Savannah. I’m still a salesman. My product has just changed.

TSM: How long did it take you to develop your style and approach on the tours?

BR: Oh, about 65 years! And it’s still a work in progress. I work at this every day, and I mean that literally.

TSM: You’re quite a student of Savannah’s history, aren’t you?

BR: When I was young, I didn’t pay a lot of attention to it because downtown was [just] a lot of old stuff. But as I got older, I developed a real insatiable thirst for knowledge about the city. That led ultimately into me becoming a tour guide.     > TSM: Savannah is a quirky place. Any strange experiences on your trolley to report?

BR: I had a lady ask me about three years ago—and this woman was in her mid-60s—she told me that she’d come to Savannah to go to Paula Deen’s restaurant. [She explained that] she’s a big fan, and she had a facelift before coming just in case she met Paula Deen.

TSM: What do you want to leave the tourists with?

BR: They’re not going to remember every last thing you’ve told them, but what they are going to remember is how they feel about their experience in Savannah and how they feel about the people. And I think the impression that I make upon these people and the way I present the city is going to determine their impression of the entire community. It gives me a great sense of pride and satisfaction to be part of these people’s lives O

In a city stuffed with squares, it’s easy to forget about Savannah’s lesser-known but no less beautiful outdoor spaces. Lattimore Park is one overlooked alfresco area, carefully situated within Ardsley Park, one of the city’s most elegant neighborhoods. In 1910, original developers Harry and William Lattimore were careful to design this classy community after the famous Oglethorpe Plan by placing 1-acre parcels of land along the Abercorn Street corridor, much like the squares of downtown Savannah. Yet to make their own mark, the Lattimores arranged the land without bisected roads—an effort that created peaceful parks instead of bustling squares.

Today these parks function much as the public commons of yore, according to Beth Lattimore Reiter, granddaughter of the original founders. “Growing up, we flew kites, walked the dog—everything you can imagine a park would be good for,” she says. So the next time Forsyth is too full, do like the Ardsley Parkians and head over to Lattimore Park for some relaxation and a look at many historic houses. After soaking up the spring rays, on April 2 head over to Ardsley’s own Trends and Traditions between 4–8 p.m. for the Open House/Art Show celebrating the photography of Dr. Les Wilkes and Diane Booker. Nature, art and history have never looked so good. Trends and Traditions, 3407 Waters Avenue. 912.354.5012, www.trendsinframing.com