South discovers the hidden delights of the historic, happening and heavenly Holy City: Charleston

In Charleston, every building has secrets. The long staircases groan beneath their pressure. The thick carpets lay length to length against them, absorbing footfalls and cushioning echoes. The oak doors fall solidly shut, fastening them tight.

I sensed it as soon as I came into the city. I drove slowly; I saw the buildings pressed against an autumn sky the color of frosted glass. Their shapes represented more than a collection of secrets; they illustrated the character of the city itself: the vast array of succulent foods, the thriving nightlife and music scene, the throaty tones of a saxophone, somewhere, drifting, the gentle courtesy of the locals and their lulling accents, discernible from Savannahians’ only to the close listener.

I listened closely.

In the lobbies of hotels, at elbow-polished bars, in the corners of dimly lit restaurants—I listened. What I heard were the harmonies characteristic of the South: laughter that carries, the ringing of crystal, forks cleaning plates, doors swinging open and the footsteps of children. I heard the quiet unidentifiable sounds unique to historic homes. I heard the pleasant din of many conversations inhabiting a single space. I heard voices lowered to whisper.
In Charleston, every building has a secret. It just needs to be discovered.

Lay of the Land
Charleston is defined by her waterways. A pleasant two-hour drive from Savannah, the town occupies approximately 130 square miles—all of them decidedly and proudly Lowcountry.
The downtown district, located on the peninsula formed by the Ashley and Cooper rivers, is flanked by marshland. Populated by antebellum homes, a burgeoning business district and numerous restaurants and bars, downtown comprises the heart of Charleston.

At the Southern tip of the peninsula lies the Battery, where sailboats skim the Charleston Harbor and historic Fort Sumter cradles the Civil War. The salty breeze is constant, carrying the sound of palm fronds slapping together and waves lapping. The Battery’s beautiful White Point Gardens offer the shade of massive oaks and a sprawling lawn skirted by historic statues and cannons.

West Ashley and James islands lie to the west of the peninsula, home to more than half of Charleston’s population, and the charming city of Mount Pleasant lies east of the Cooper River.
Like what you’re reading? Read the full article in the December/January 10 issue of South magazine.