1. Live Oak Restaurant Group

A true Southern gentleman, Ansley Williams began his group of restaurants with a casual little joint called Spanky’s down on River Street in 1976. Since then, Spanky’s expanded to two locations and was joined by five other establishments that take Savannah dining from one end of the spectrum to the other. With easygoing lunches of sandwiches, fries or chicken and top cuts of steak and lobster, the many venues under the Live Oak umbrella cater to every taste or mood. With this empire of fantastic fare, there could have been room for trouble with the economic variations of late.

2. The Lady and Sons

A gorgeous, prime location downtown, mixed with regular television shows and several cookbooks, The Lady & Sons is one of Savannah’s most well known dining attractions. But its owners will never forget the struggles of its modest in-home beginnings, crediting its longevity to the successful location of the city, and the people of Savannah and the Southeast. “We are so fortunate that we aren’t in any other place,” Jamie Deen says. “With the location of our city, people that may normally travel farther away for trips are now taking car trips, and we are so easy to get to, right off I-95.” 102 W. Congress St., Savannah, Ga., 31401, 912.233.2600

3. Elizabeth on 37th

Nestled amid the Spanish moss, a 1900s mansion stands perfectly reflecting old Savannah’s grandeur, housing a timeless cornerstone of Savannah dining: Elizabeth on 37th. Originally created by Chef Elizabeth Terry and her husband, Michael, Elizabeth on 37th’s current owners, Gary and Greg Butch are preparing to celebrate its 30th anniversary. Gary and Greg began as employees of the Terrys and have evolved with the business almost from its inception. They’ve kept the venerated identity, though, by “respecting their past.” They are able to maintain the high standards and quality of the restaurant’s original fine dining concept by keeping their seafood and produce local, and even using the restaurant’s own house-grown herbs and edible flowers. Items like local black sea bass with South Carolina quail hash and live local blue crab keep the menu elegantly Southern. 105 East 37th St., Savannah, Ga. 31401, 912.236.5547

4. Garibaldi Cafe and The Olde Pink House

From their beginnings as an old firehouse and a home, later to become a bank, the buildings housing Garibaldi Cafe and The Olde Pink House each have many tales to tell. Donna Moeckel and her partners acquired Garibaldi Cafe in 1980 and then, 12 years later, The Olde Pink House, with each venue offering diners totally different elements of Savannah hospitality. The Olde Pink House: 23 Abercorn St., Savannah, Ga. 31401, 912.232.4286; Garibaldi Cafe: 315 W. Congress St., Savannah, Ga. 31401, 912.232.7118

To read more, pick up the latest issue of South magazine!

Photography by Andy Silvers

“See how the flooring’s different here?” owner Brad Clapp explains. “It’s believed that a body was buried underneath after a terrible fire started by a jilted lover. Nobody’s touched that section of the floor since.”

With inspiration like that, it’s easy to see where this new establishment on Broughton Street gets its name. The Crypt Pub is definitely a place where Savannah’s ghosts will feel right at home. From the face-distorting mirrors in the bathrooms to a skeleton DJ and his devil companions that move to the music, the sensation of a haunted house doesn’t escape patrons for long.

But ghosts and ghouls aren’t the only surprises served. While looking like a bar, The Crypt offers more of a gastropub experience. The full lunch and dinner menu created by chef John Black emphasizes fresh, local ingredients, and nearly everything is created on site, even the French fries. Each dish offers a playful twist on the pub’s spooky theme, like a shrimp cocktail served in a skull, emulating brains.

Not to be outdone by the grub, the bar offers a full wine and martini list that features several crypt-inspired cocktails served in bar glasses that float mysteriously on the wall.

After 11 p.m., The Crypt transforms into a dance club but continues to offer a small appetizer menu. Don’t be surprised to find a ghost girl or two gliding and fading away in the dark as you’re dancing to beats from a variety of local DJs.

317 W. Broughton St, Savannah GA 31401, 912.234.0430, thecryptpub.com

Photo by Nicole Rule

As the city’s only smoking lounge, owner Red Marsid prides himself on offering something new, but was unsure of how people in Savannah—with all their gentility— would take to the idea of giant smoking devices, complete with velvet hoses and all, adorning their beloved Broughton Street.

Luckily for Marsid, no one put up too much of a fight and the place has become a smokin’ sensation. “The idea was accepted by the city and more and more by the people of Savannah,” he comments. “Once people get to know what it is, they think it’s cool.”

For the record, a hookah is a water pipe that can be smoked with either flavored tobacco or “shisha,” a non-nicotine tobacco product. The smoke gets pulled through the pipe to the water, where it is filtered and cooled, producing a less harsh smoke than cigarettes. As Marsid explains, “You don’t have to be a smoker to smoke a hookah. It offers a nice smell and flavor, and it doesn’t smell like smoke. It is much lighter!”

20 E. Broughton St. 912.236.5464

To read out more about The Mirage Mediterranean Bar & Grill check out South Magazine’s August September Issue!

Before Beth and Michael Meeks shared a last name, they spent many a date in the dining room of the Express Café and Bakery, a quaint breakfast/lunch/brunch restaurant tucked to the side of Broughton on Barnard. “This restaurant has been here for 24 years and was a really special place for us.” Michael says. “Everyone has a Café Express story.” The Meeks’ story however is a little different from most.

Both native Savannahians, Beth and Michael left the Hostess City to pursue Michael’s career in corporate radio- a gig that had the two of them moving every two years as they traveled the country flipping radio stations. But, as Beth tells it, they never lost their love for Savannah. “We came back on vacation for five days and wondered why we ever left.” So when they heard that the Express Café and Bakery was for sale, after changing owners several times, the Meeks jumped at the chance to “be managers of our own destiny,” as Beth eloquently puts it.

Want to read more? Check out the full article in the June/July issue of South Magazine

Charlie Russo’s seafood on Abercorn Street traffics the latter category. Russo is a second-generation fishmonger who talks about Georgia fish almost like they were family. He can be found in the back of the shop, dressed in a purple rubber apron and a black University of Georgia hat, overseeing the deconstruction of loads of fish that were flapping on the deck of a boat just a few hours ago. Fish is in his blood, he says.
“It’s got to be in your blood, the fish business,” he says. “It’s a hard business.” Russo has an encyclopedic knowledge of the fish that run in the waters from Darien to Bluffton. He has many charts of fish species that line the walls of the store and his office. The greatest resource of coastal Georgia to him, however, is shrimp.
“The local shrimp we get in these waters, the greatest in the world – tastewise, the supply, the quality—we don’t fool with anything else that’s imported, no pond raised stuff,” he says. “The shrimp here is our biggest commodity.” The Russos are a fish family—Charlie’s father opened shop in 1946, and now even his grandson and great-grandson are working there. They aren’t the only ones. Savannah is filled with people who have a passion for fish. Here’s where the fish go next:

GROUPER
There may be no restaurant more synonymous with the image of Savannah’s mix of elegance and familiar comfort than Elizabeth’s on 37th. Located inside of a restored mansion, it feels more like going to someone’s house for dinner than going out to eat. Co-owners Greg and Gary Butch can be found waiting tables—and Gary has an archival knowledge of wine that rivals Wikipedia.
Dedicated to using fresh, local ingredients, everyone that dines in the restaurant gets a taste of a small salad harvested from their front and back gardens—in early February it had fennel, lettuce and small pieces of mint garnished with goat cheese. Elizabeth’s also serves fried Bluffton oysters served with a smoky tomato aioli over shredded Daikon radishes.
There’s no way to go wrong on the Elizabeth’s menu, but an especially stunning selection is a sesame-crusted grouper served with potatoes and an apple fennel hash. This three-act whirlwind takes you from a powerful, nutty fish to catch your breath on a crispy potato and then sink into your chair with a refreshingly cool hash. As for the wine, let Gary take care of you.
“People think it’s going to be fussy—it’s white tablecloth, in this big, beautiful mansion. But our food is very simple, very humble, I like to think,” says Chef Kelly Yambor. “I don’t like much fussy stuff on the plate, and I don’t like people to sit down and feel intimidated.”

SPECKLED TROUT
In the past few years, using fresh ingredients from local suppliers has become a revolution in the country’s biggest cities, and both the minimalist decor and small delicate plates offered at Local 11 Ten give Savannah a taste of this haute cuisine.
One side of the restaurant is a long, banquet style seat, where people from different parties sit next to each other.“We wanted this to be a place where locals could come, and at the same time tourists could come as well, and eat side by side,” says Jamie Durrence, general manager. “The whole mantra is local—local people, local food.”
Their menu changes constantly based on the season, but on a Tuesday in February they were serving an elegant take on a Southern classic—creamy grits over brioche topped with butter poached shrimp and a single small quail egg.
Aside from staples like shrimp, the menu varies from shad in January and speckled trout in the spring to a brief appearance by king mackerel in the summer. At Local, each day is different because each catch is different—every day at around three, their supplier shows up with the freshest fish he has, and the chefs decide what to do with it afterward.

SCALLOPS
The Georgia coast isn’t the only culture that values fresh fish, and Garibaldi’s offers a menu of Georgia fish prepared in the style of Northern Italy. All the fish is personally purchased by head chef, Gerald Greene, who buys all his fish whole—looking at the gills and the eyes is the best way to tell how fresh a fish is, he says.
Some restaurants will stretch a fillet for a few days after its expiration date but not Garbialdi’s. Green orders in small batches to avoid extra food; he’d rather run out of fresh fish than have old fish left over. A highlight of the menu is the cornucopia of seafood: a scallop wrapped with flounder, topped with clams and crab. A light butter and wine sauce perfectly touches off the lingering taste of the rich, flaky fish.
Greene is an avid fisherman and will go out with his friend Vinnie Burns, the head chef from the Olde Pink House. Sometimes, a lucky customer may have a main course caught by the chef the day before. “You can say—the chef just caught that. It’s funny,” he says. “When people know that the fishes are fresh, they’ll always come back.

WILD GEORGIA SHRIMP
As a rule of thumb, one does not go into the heart of a city’s tourist district to find good food. Thereare, however, exceptions, and Vic’s on the River is one of them. Vic’s is a relatively new white linen restaurant that occupies three floors looking out over the Savannah River. They serve modern Southern cuisine that’s like mom’s home cooking transposed to an elegant dining experience.
Chef Dusty Grove grew up in Savannah, and cut his teeth as a chef at Elizabeth’s on 37th. After stints in Atlanta and Florida, he came back to Savannah to let his kids grow up with the special relationship to food that develops on the coast. “After I had a few kids I really wanted to move back to the water. I Grew up on the river and missed it. I wanted my kids to have that same value system that I grew up with here, being responsible for what they eat,” he says. “My kids love seafood and love crab, and there’s a lot of work that goes into picking crab.”
Grove says that when a tourist comes to Savannah, they’re expecting alot of food, and they’re expecting it all fried. He accommodates that desire for traditional Southern cooking, but with his own twists. Like Local, he offers his own take on the classic Shrimp and Grits this time with a barbecue sauce whose smoky flavor is accented by rosemary, providing a light floral taste that sits on top of the heavy Southern staple. The shrimp, of course, is wild Georgia shrimp.

Photography by Angela Hopper

Want to read more? Check out the full article in the February/March issue of South Magazine.

The charm begins with the sound of its French name, filet mignon: It’s exotic, sultry. Considered the best cut of bovine beef because it runs along both sides of the animal’s spine and receives very little exercise, the filet is the top shelf of tender beef (and usually one of the most expensive).

Four Savannah restaurants offering U.S. Prime beef, the highest grade available, opened their doors to us in our quest to find the best filet. Bull Street Chophouse, Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Sapphire Grill were on our radar. We added the fourth candidate, Il Pasticcio, at the suggestion of its proprietor, Pino Venetico, who also owns its upstairs neighbor, Bull Street Chophouse. Venetico claims the filet at Il Pasticcio “was the impetus for the Chophouse concept.” So, the gauntlet was thrown with four restaurants in the mix, the focus of our search resting on each chef’s method of delivery for a flawless filet.

 Il Pasticcio

Corporate Executive Chef Mir Ali, who presides over kitchens at Il Pasticcio and Bull Street Chophouse, prepares Il Pasticcio’s filet by seasoning it with salt, pepper and olive oil. Prior to grilling at 800 degrees in a special oven, Ali encrusts the beef with Gorgonzola cheese. Fresh carrots and layers of Yukon Gold potatoes, Gruyere cheese and pancetta gratin are plated alongside the finished product. Ali then dresses up the entire dish with a port–cippolini reduction, like high heels gussy up a woman. The reduction, created from an Italian onion often considered to be the love child of a Vidalia onion–shallot rendezvous, creates a tantalizing taste on the palate and makes it apparent why this dish has been a best seller for 16 years.

On the menu
Filetto Di Manzo All’ Gorgonzola
Served with a port–cippolini reduction, fresh carrots and layered Yukon Gold potatoes 

Bull Street Chophouse

Upstairs from Il Pasticcio, a different approach to the filet is employed at Bull Street Chophouse. Ali coats the filet in salt and a heavy dose of fresh crushed black peppercorns. It is then grilled and served a la carte with a choice of sauces and sides, including a stacked basket weave presentation of truffle oil French fries. It would be easy to label this a macho dish because of the standout flavor and sharp crunch of the black pepper that surrounds the center-cut steak. No frills, just a beautiful cut of meat cooked medium rare to rare, and when the fork goes in the mouth, it’s the crust that delivers a true char taste. Sweet dreams, carnivores. 

On the menu
Filet Mignon Grilled and served a la carte

Ruth’s Chris Steak House

Chef Cody Buford of Ruth’s Chris Steak House ran two of the corporation’s kitchens in Charlotte before helping to bring the national chain darling to Savannah’s Bay Street. “None other than Chicago Prime, the top 2 percent of all beef in the United States, is served here,” Buford touts. Searing at 800 degrees is the name of the game for this meat—after being seasoned with salt and pepper—to lock in the juices. The filet is flipped four to six times to help the juices flow. Parsley and a half-ounce of specially made butter exclusive to Ruth’s Chris caramelize the exterior as the beef is placed on a 500-degree plate. “Consistency is key,” Buford declares. “I started as a line cook and learned the value of methodology early on; I am 100 percent industry taught.” Bleu cheese and roasted garlic crumbs are optional toppers for added fanfare, as well as side dishes such as the scrumptious house classic, sweet potato casserole.

On the menu
Filet Mignon, topped with fresh butter and parsley, served a la carte

Sapphire Grill

Chef and owner of Sapphire Grill, Philadelphia native Christopher Nason, remains true to his restaurant namesake and simply cannot utilize any cooking method other than grilling to deliver the perfect filet from his kitchen. Massaged and tenderly hand-rubbed with olive oil, each cut is treated with salt and pepper before laying it above sizzling embers. “I prefer the smoky consistency that a grill can deliver to the searing of a pan,” Nason admits. Constantly basting and removing it from the flame results in a uniformly coated crust on the exterior and a pink-red color on the inside. He serves the center-cut, aged beef a la carte. A tray of seasoned salts, seven sauces and a variety of vegetables appear on the menu as sidekicks for hire. Rare to medium rare is perfection for this filet when the tongue embraces the smoky peppered crunch of the exterior and the pure meat taste of the warm, juicy middle. 

On the menu
Tenderloin Grilled and served a la carte

The Verdict

The heavily coated exterior of freshly ground black peppercorn on Bull Street Chophouse’s filet is a hands-down winner. Of course, Il Pasticcio’s rich reduction pairs oh so well with the Gorgonzola crust. Sapphire Grill’s filet wins our vote for grilled perfection. Or maybe it’s the sizzling butter at Ruth’s Chris that tops them all. Alas, the decision cannot be made with only a single round of sampling. Let’s try it one more time …

Be Your Own Judge:

Il Pasticcio
2 East Broughton Street
912.231.8888
www.ilpasticciosavannah.com

Bull Street Chophouse
44 Bull Street
912.232.2728
www.bullstreetchophouse.com

Ruth’s Chris Steak House
111 West Bay Street
912.721.4800
www.ruthschris.com  

Sapphire Grill
110 West Congress Street
912.443.9962
www.sapphiregrill.com

The Flawless Steak

A perfect filet begins with a perfect cut of meat. Our trio of chefs revere Prime rated beef for its marbling. Chef Chris Nason of Sapphire Grill suggests, “Always ask your butcher to cut fresh filets. Point to one you like in the display case for him to gauge your likes and dislikes. [Fresh cut meat] will have the best color. You want it to be clean: that’s what a butcher is for.”

Look For:

Marbling: white flecks of fat that add to the meat’s flavor
Thickness: at least 1 inch thick and evenly cut

Other Notable Filets

Alligator Soul
Cooking method: Grilling
114 Barnard Street
912.232.7899

Elizabeth on 37th
Cooking method: Pan Searing
105 East 37th Street
912.236.5547 

45 Bistro
Cooking method: Pan Searing
123 East Broughton Street
912.234.3111 

700 Drayton
Cooking method: Pan Searing
700 Drayton Street
912.721.5002

As litigious lawyers, my wife and I seldom agree on anything. So we jumped at the chance to take our respective sides and put the fare at Eos—a casually hip food and wine bar tucked away in the Thomas Square neighborhood of the Victorian District—up for debate. The old brick bank building had been empty for some time when owner Shelley Smith happened upon it one rainy Savannah afternoon. Eos’s concept is small plates—bigger than tapas, smaller than entrees but perfect to share—along with 130 wines, including 50 by the glass. We wanted to see if Eos could prove its case.  

The chef welcomed us with an amuse-bouche of seared tuna dappled with delicate chive oil, paired with a pink prosecco. He made his opening statement with the Caprese Superiore salad, a combination of bitter mesclun greens, mozzarella cheese and ripe tomatoes, topped with a balsamic–herb dressing and crumbled bleu cheese. Our friends, who accompanied us to dinner, enjoyed the Aquacate Vinagretta, a creamy avocado topped with a refreshing bite of marinated tomatoes and onions. With these summer salads, we enjoyed a bottle of Miner Viognier ‘07.

As we moved into the case in chief, my wife—predictably—objected to my selection of seafood, including the Gambas Pil-Pil, a spicy mélange of shrimp and garlic in tomato broth, and the Fresh Catch, a perfectly pan-seared grouper topped with black-eyed pea and mango relish. Instead, she chose her new favorite, the Roasted Pork & Fig Pizzette. She swore that this flatbread topped with goat cheese and Parmesan was an outright conspiracy of sweet and savory flavors. Our guests opted for the Chicken Française, with a light artichoke and white wine sauce, and the chef’s special, a succulent duck breast served atop homemade gnocchi. The entire table agreed that the herbal fruit flavors of the Domaine Schlumberger Pinot Gris ‘05 met its burden of proof on this course.

Our closing was contentious, as always. I thought the cheesecake made with more than three pounds of cream cheese that had been whipped for two hours made a compelling case, but my wife was persuaded by the cinnamon bread pudding. She suggested we put aside our differences and order both. We rested with a bottle of Kinheimer Riesling ‘96.

My wife and I, for once, can agree on something. Eos’s eclectic fare pleased our palates beyond a reasonable doubt. The portions satisfied my appetite, and the small plates were perfect for my wife, who can never decide on her desired dish. Along with our guests, we were thankful for the expert testimony of our server, Holly, who helped us navigate the wine list. Owner Shelley Smith has created a warm neighborhood bistro with a relaxed elegance perfectly suited for Savannah. Our verdict is in: Eos will appeal to anyone looking for a combination of good food and good wine.

Eos is located at 1801 Habersham Street. Call 912.238.2400 or visit www.eosrestaurant.com

About the Writers: Christopher and Nicole Smith

Smitty and Nikki are both local attorneys with the law firms of Hunter MacLean and Brennan & Wasden. They fell in love 10 years ago across the witness stand of a mock trail at the University of Georgia School of Law and have been dining out ever since.

Nearly four years ago, a broad-shouldered, dark-haired Maryland Yankee walked into my downtown office bearing a huge, rolled-up color printout of a historic Savannah map. Introducing himself as Michael Volen, this stranger proceeded to tell me that he had just purchased a three-story building directly across from my office and was looking for an appropriate use for the property. Four years and many strange twists and turns later, Michael Volen is the proprietor of Savannah’s hottest new pub.

The Distillery is located inside an old nightclub building at the corner of Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard and Liberty Street—a place, in the words of local personality Murray Silver, cursed with an address “that does not front on any street.” In fact, it may be the largest building in town you’ve never seen. But The Distillery’s beguiling secrecy hasn’t stopped folks—Savannahians and tourists alike—from entering its doors since the day they first opened in mid-November of last year.

The Distillery sprang from a personal quest of Volen and his family. After working in construction and development in the Baltimore area for close to three decades, the Maryland native was ready for a change of pace—something slower, friendlier and more rewarding. “Four years ago,” he says, “with some real estate profits that I needed to reinvest, I decided to look down South for some commercial property to provide me some income.” Visits to Charleston and Savannah narrowed it down to a choice between the two Southern cities.

Savannah, Volen says, attracted him because it was “a work in progress.” His developer eyes saw opportunities here that didn’t exist in Charleston, a city he describes as “more polished.” Then Volen found the current home of The Distillery at 416 West Liberty Street. “I came across this building and felt it had great old bones,” he explains. “I loved the location and the fact that it was close to the interchange to get in and out of the city, and that it was surrounded by the civic center, hotels, the visitors’ center and a tour company.”

Volen snatched up the building, but then had to figure what to do with it. I worked with him on a few ideas, even sending his way a caller who claimed to be looking for a building in which to exhibit a huge collection of artifacts from Gone with the Wind. (Fortunately, that didn’t work out.) Volen spoke with various chain bars and restaurants before finally deciding, in late 2007, that he needed to move to Savannah and start something here himself. The Volen clan, including daughters Hannah and Julia, son Ben, wife Lori, mother-in-law Me-maw and assorted pets and friends, piled into a 13-vehicle convoy and rumbled down I-95. “We looked like the Baltimore Colts leaving to go to Indianapolis in the middle of the night,” jokes Volen, with a tinge of former-Colt-fan sadness in his voice.

Before the big move, Volen trekked down to the Georgia Historical Society archives at Gaston and Whitaker streets to dive into the building’s history. What he found amazed him: Volen’s new building was in fact the site of a historic whiskey distillery from the turn of the 20th century. Prohibition drove the original distillery, known as the Kentucky Distilling Company and later the Louisville Distilling Company, out of business. But there were no historic photos, no newspaper advertisements buried in the miles of microfiche, no moldy file with yellowed clippings stuck inside … just a name. “I have tried my damnedest,” declares Volen, “but I could not find even an advertisement for the two companies at this address—except that they were located at this address.” So it was left to Volen’s imagination to create something new, yet evocative of what used to be at the corner of MLK and Liberty.

What he came up with is a new pub in the historic home of the original distillery. Wooden beadboard lines the walls, and large, flat-panel TVs hanging above feature a loop of silent films from the early 20th century. Historic newspaper articles and posters from the Prohibition era hang here and there. Using an 1895 photograph of another historic saloon as their guide, Volen and his staff handcrafted the mahogany-topped bar and oak back bar, which features a copper still reminiscent of The Distillery’s name. Says Volen, “We wanted to create an atmosphere reminiscent of an American saloon at the turn of the century, early 1900s.” On many nights of the week, local and regional musicians take to the stage on an upper-level balcony to serenade the crowd. A handful of metal tables and chairs are set up outside to facilitate sidewalk dining.

For the recession-affected, there’s a long list of lunch items available for $5 or less, including a tasty burger, a grilled cheese sandwich, and my personal favorite, a hot bologna sandwich. These staples are satisfying, but the menu also includes more adventurous fare, which Volen describes as “classic American pub food with a gourmet twist.”

The Distillery cooks up what could be the best fish & chips in Savannah. The breading, made with Asheville, North Carolina-brewed Highland Gaelic Ale, is just crispy enough, yet the cod inside is so flaky you can cut it with your finger. The entree is served in a basket flanked by Cajun remoulade on one side and homemade tartar sauce on the other. Try the sweet potato fries or Guinness-battered onion rings in place of the usual chips.

Allegedly a “Savannah tradition,” the Bo Peep’s Hot Roast Beef is billed as “a taste of history.” I don’t know about that, but it’s definitely one of the tastiest meals I’ve ever enjoyed in a Savannah restaurant, and it is certainly quite out of the ordinary. The dish is an open-faced roast beef sandwich, served with mashed potatoes and boiled carrots. Perhaps closer to British pub fare than the American cuisine The Distillery advertises, but delish nonetheless.

It’s pretty hard to find bad crab stew anywhere in Savannah, but Annie’s Cream of Crab Soup is still a standout. Maybe it’s Michael Volen’s Maryland roots that make the difference, but he won’t tell. This creamy concoction features lump blue crab meat and is handmade everyday at The Distillery.

If you don’t come to The Distillery for the food, come for the beer. The bar features a rotating list of close to 30 craft brews from around the nation. If you’re not a beer drinker, don’t worry; the huge variety of brews ensures there’s something that’ll meet your fancy. Manager Chris Hubbard explains, “Our draft lineup changes daily, if not twice a day. There’s always something new. It’s a challenge to keep up with, but it’s worth it.” The first question Hubbard instructs The Distillery staff to ask guests is, “What do you usually drink?” Chances are, the ever-changing beer lineup includes something similar, but superior, to your usual poison—whether it’s light American lager, fruit cider, hoppy ale or dark stout. The Distillery also features a series of five-beer “flights” that allow patrons to sample smaller, six-ounce portions of the various brews in the cooler.

Perhaps the only ironic thing about Michael Volen’s story is that this saloon impresario never touches alcohol himself. Volen is a coin-carrying alcoholic who has been sober for more than 13 years. Calling himself “Savannah’s Sam Malone,” after the teetotaling proprietor of the bar in the television series Cheers, Volen says it’s not a struggle for him to work long days around the source of so much pain in his past life. “I enjoy people enjoying themselves with the good food and the quality beverages we serve,” he explains. “I find great joy in the fact that they ‘get’ what I did—they like the joint and feel comfortable in the ambiance.”

Four years later, I’m glad Michael Volen walked into my office that afternoon; I’ve certainly walked into his many times since then. A framed copy of that historic map he gave me hangs today on a wall inside The Distillery. Who knows, maybe one day, a future Michael Volen will read this article in historical archives and know what stood at the corner of MLK and Liberty Street at the turn of this century. Hopefully Michael Volen’s tavern will outlast its Prohibition-cursed predecessors. Good luck, Michael—and cheers.

Located at 416 West Liberty Street, The Distillery serves food until midnight and drink until 3 a.m. Monday through Saturday. Doors close at 9 p.m. on Sunday. Call 912.236.1772 or visit www.distillerysavannah.com

We like to think things are better here in the Lowcountry. Boasting beaches, marshes, pine and maritime forests, Savannah and the Coastal Empire certainly plays host to a slew of scenery to appreciate. Still, it is hard to scrub that provincial habit of looking over your shoulder and wondering, telling and asking about what’s going on in the bigger cities of Dixie. But just because the cities are larger doesn’t mean you have to run off towards sparkling skylines to fix every craving—especially when the craving is of the epicurean sort. After all, what are provinces if not the breadbasket of the cities?

Detached from congested cities and sprawling suburbs, Savannah is instead conveniently close to farmland producing seasonal produce so fresh it can turn a simple salad into a dining delight. And thanks to the increasingly popular appeal of eating healthy food with a known origin, these local farms and farmers are finally getting their day in the sun. It helps too that larger-than life personalities are helping to proliferate the pros of organically and locally grown produce. Daron “Farmer D” Joffe is one green-thumbed Georgian making waves in the world of localized produce. As an Atlanta-based organic farmer with an unmatched passion for fresh food, Farmer D not only has his own garden center in Atlanta, a television show on the Mother Nature Network and a line of biodynamic compost sold through Whole Foods Market, but he also maintains a thriving farming consulting practice that has him providing step-by-step guidance to start-up organic farmers.

Farmer D makes agricultural advancement look easy, which may be one reason why two Savannah restaurants, Cha Bella and Local 11 Ten, have cited him as an inspiration and one-time assistant to bringing seasonable produce to their diners’ plates. At these chic establishments, chefs are using fresh-from-the-farm foods (and even locally harvested seafood) to create bold tastes and healthy meals that have locals coming back time after time.

Matt Roher first saw Cha Bella as the place where both his out-on-the town patrons and the home-cooking public could come to close the farm-table gap. The plan involved using as many local ingredients as possible in the kitchen of the restaurant and using the outdoor patio space as a weekly farmers market for local growers bent on sustainability and organic growing methods. The eatery-market marriage idea was inspired by Athens, Georgia favorite, Big City Bread Cafe, but Roher’s focus on farm fresh ingredients was solidified at Hampton Island Preserve, a private retreat located off the Savannah coast. During the time Roher served as the executive chef on Hampton Island, Farmer D was brought on to build Harvest Lake, an organic community farm. Recently, with Harvest Lake secured as a productive operation, and Roher striking out on his own, Farmer D has helped to develop Cha Bella’s own 3-acre farm off of Tennessee Avenue, thus shrinking the farm-to-table gap to a few city miles.

“By this summer, we’re expecting to grow 70–80 percent of the produce we use at the restaurant,” Roher glows. The idea is novel, if not a little out of order: Building a farm to provide for an already thriving restaurant. But the concept is exactly what turns the chef on as he knows this corner of the South is the ideal place for any number of agricultural and aquacultural activities. One of his latest fascinations is a clamming operation just north of Brunswick. But if you think that clams don’t seem to be a local food, Roher would argue that they should be. “They’re some of the best I’ve ever had,” he insists.

Cha Bella’s fresh fare has diners pouring in, and has the one-time market patio in demand as outdoor seating. Thankfully, a new market venue has been found. Saturdays from 9 a.m.–2 p.m. at the Trustees Garden at Bay and East Broad streets, you can take home your own stash of next door produce whether it comes from Cha Bella’s own acreage or any of the other local and sustainable farms that are leading the campaign to take food out of the world of commodity and return it to the realm of community responsibility.

Roher sums up his business concept with the Cha Bella House Veggies and Greens Salad. “I’d like to say that pretty much defines us in a nutshell,” he explains. The dish stays on the menu throughout the year but the open-ended title allows the kitchen to adapt the plate to the season. Recently, it was a thoughtful selection of beans, greens, corn, asparagus and tomatoes. The light, astringent dressing coats the mild greens but allows the other more robust vegetables room to shine while a hidden peppering of cilantro keeps the diner on his toes. For a dinner entrée from a similar vein, the Pasta Primavera is an incredibly straightforward combination with squash and zucchini tossed into penne pasta with a light sprinkling of grated cheese.

Roher is also proud of the golden tilefish on the menu. “The seafood around here—there’s nothing like it,” he enthuses. “[We have the] best selection and most diversity in the country.” It would be folly to give any one person credit for the availability of aquatic life on the Lowcountry’s coast but, according to Roher, Jamie Barr of Blue Marlin International gets it out of the water and onto the plate in a responsible fashion. True to Roher’s taste, the tilefish is very good, similar to grouper in texture and taste but with unique flavors. Just like the other dishes brimming with fresh, local ingredients at Cha Bella, this meal leaves you pleasantly full and wanting more.

Situated just south of Forsyth Park on Bull Street, Local 11 Ten is home to Chef Jeff Rodgers, a cuisinier committed to making the best meals out of the best regional ingredients—just as the restaurant’s name implies. Currently, there are plans in the works for a rooftop bar featuring an herb garden to be developed with the help of the ever-active Farmer D. Aside from adding straight-from-the-earth flavors to Local’s favorite dishes, the garden is expected to diminish storm water runoff and modestly promote global cooling.

Until the herb garden is completed, Rodgers is relying on local farmers Vince and Debbie Baker for the vast majority of his herbs as well as salad greens. During dinner at Local 11 Ten, fresh greens can be found lightly tossed with dressing, sweet and sour fresh berries and chevre goat cheese from the local Thomasville’s Sweetgrass Dairy. The salad accompanies an enormous slab of seared grouper with a buttery sweet corn sauce holding a hint of citrus. Just as on Cha Bella’s menu, the fish has come from Jamie Barr’s Blue Marlin, a company Rodgers also makes a priority to speak of favorably, especially regarding Barr’s work to develop the Wild Georgia Shrimp brand and promote sustainable fishing. “I have to give him props,” Rodger remarks. “Honestly, I thought I had dealt with fresh seafood in the past but his product thoroughly makes a difference.” According to Rodgers, Barr is finding the freshest seafood in the area and getting it first and freshest to the Savannahian diner.

For an extra slice of fresh goodness, Rodgers suggests a plate of Carolina Scallops served over a spring salad of seared Belgian endive, tomatoes and early spring asparagus. The scallops have a healthy sear but the salad, a welcome substitution for cream sauce, steals the show. Juicy yellow teardrop tomatoes from Florida pair with the Baker’s parsley for a blast of simple Italian flavor with a wonderfully mild after-burn of heat on the lip and a faint sapidity of Asian seasonings. Rodgers confesses that the dressing comes from his personal interest in “not wanting to waste anything.”  He uses the leftover seeds from hot peppers with rice vinegar to complicate the dish and compose something unique—a Southern-born dish that effortlessly spans two additional continents.

Combining ocean fresh seafood with seasonal, local produce is clearly a winning combination, but then again, what would you expect from a first-class restaurant in a small Southern city graced by the invaluable and often overlooked assets of Lowcountry farmland?

Local 11 Ten, 1110 Bull Street, 912.790.9000, Cha Bella, 102 East Broad Street, 912.790.7888